On the rare chance that someone else stumbles across this problem ...

By default, Java's Xalan transformer for creating XML documents does not correctly encode emojis. Instead of 👍 for the thumbs up emoji, Xalan encodes it as ��. As Arthur pointed out, this is not a valid entity encoding.

One solution is to use Saxonica's Saxon 11 transformer, which produces the expected output:

  <html>
    <head><meta charset="utf8"/></head>
    <body>
      <p id="caret">the 👍 emoji</p>
    </body>
  </html>

In Java, switching to Saxon entails installing the Jar files for Saxonica and its resolvers. Then set the system property before invoking the XML transformer: System.setProperty( "javax.xml.transform.TransformerFactory",  "net.sf.saxon.TransformerFactoryImpl" );

ConTeXt handles the emoji from the transformed XML file without any issues.

Thank you, Arthur.