On Wed, 8 Jan 2020, Exp wrote:

> I've put `OSFONTDIR=/usr/share/fonts` in ~/.../texlive/2019/texmf.cnf,
> but `mtxrun --script fonts --reload` refuses to look it up, even though
> `kpsewhich --expand-path '$OSFONTDIR'` gives /usr/share/fonts.
>
> `export OSFONTDIR=/usr/share/fonts` does work, but doesn't feel very tex-y.

Context (MkIV) uses variables defined in texmfcnf.lua and not texmf.cnf.
You can copy the one that comes with texlive (should be in $TEXMF/web2c
directory) to $TEXMFHOME/web2c and edit it.

You can check the value of a variable using

mtxrun --expand-var OSFONTDIR
mtxrun --expand-path OSFONTDIR
mtxrun --resolve-path OSFONTDIR

Aditya
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